[Warbow] Pacific Yew 120# @ 32"

WillS

New member
Just finished this yew warbow, thought I'd put it up as I've not posted any of my bows on here before! It was horrendous to finish - reflexed bottom limb but straight top limb, 3 unrelated flaws that I had to deal with (superglue and crossed fingers!) and a couple of horn nock failures which meant removing and starting again a couple of times.

Anyway. Pics. The bottom limb in the full draw is a tad stiff - partly because it was getting so thin I couldn't take any more off, partly down to the reflex in that limb, and partly because it's drawn from dead centre on the tiller, but will look slightly better in the hand as it will bend differently.











 

WillS

New member
Thanks Simon! No, I'm waiting for a record status shoot with the EWBS to shoot it first time. No point wearing it out now and losing performance when it matters!
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
Dude, you've got to shoot it in a bit, even a dozen arrows will let the poor thing settle and get used to bending. Stick a few heavy arrows through it, it will also get you used to the bow. Then if you decide to filght shoot it, it won't have such a fright!
How can you build a bow and not shoot it????
I've normally put an arrow through mine before it's fully tillered (just in case they don't survive.... it's not a bow until it's shot and arrow ;) )
Anyhow, congrats on a good looking bow.
Del
 

WillS

New member
Nope ;) I'm sticking to my guns on this - the first time it gets shot will be at a distance shoot. Ask any of the top bowyers in the EWBS and they'll say the same thing (in fact I got this from Joe Gibbs himself!) if you want a high performance bow purely for flight shooting, the first time it's shot needs to be on the shooting line that matters. I didn't build this to be a roving/clout/everyday bow. It's gonna be my special occasion performance bow (if it's good enough!)

If it ends up being less punchy than I want it to be, it will become a roving bow and I'll build another for distance.
 

WillS

New member
P.S. I know that it seems odd, but it was the goal from the very start - to make a high performance distance bow and I'm going on advice I've been given from the guys who build the best warbows you can find. I've got a really nice dense ash stave that I'm going to make into a bow of the same weight to be a more go-to bow.
 

Yew Selfbow

Active member
Tillering can be a bit tricky at times especially with a stave like this.
What sort of distance are you expecting to achieve Will?
 

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WillS

New member
That looks ace. Osage?

Not sure - Ian Coote made a bow this draw weight that hit 258 yards over in NZ a week ago or so, but I'm nowhere near his level of ability, and this bow took a solid 2" set from my hesitation on the tiller. I'd be over the moon if I could reach 240 with a Livery.
 

Yew Selfbow

Active member
That looks ace. Osage?

Not sure - Ian Coote made a bow this draw weight that hit 258 yards over in NZ a week ago or so, but I'm nowhere near his level of ability, and this bow took a solid 2" set from my hesitation on the tiller. I'd be over the moon if I could reach 240 with a Livery.
And what grain weight will your arrow be?
 

WillS

New member
A Livery is 980 grains, and a Standard is 800 grains. I'll probably put some 1700 grain 1/4lb arrows through it once it's settled from the Liverys.
 
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