[English Longbow] Scuff Marks on Handle

albatross

Supporter
Supporter
Shooting my ELB today after a looong interval. I noticed just behind the arrow plate on the handle section some scuff marks. I am wondering if the arrows are not the correct spine and therefore marking the bow as they pass on release. Any suggestions?

Thank you.
 


Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
Check your bracing height and nocking point first. You could use talc to see whether the arrow is striking the bow on it's say past.
 


Del the Cat

Active member
Wot he said...
Once that's right, you can tinker with spine, but to be honest, some arrow plates are just slapped on anywhere.
Yo could relive the wood where it's scuffing with a file or sandpaper and re finish. Effectively you will just be doing what the arrows are doing but making it look better.
It's not a problem for the bow, just cosmetic.
When I make a bow I shoot it and observe where the arrows are rubbing, if it is too far towards the belly I adjust the curve of the side of the bow. I re-test and fit the plate where the arrows rub. Even having done that the may be some chaffing and a bit of fettling required.

If you put an arrow on the string at brace you will see how it sits on the side of the bow, (of course the dynamic behaviour of the arrow during loose is different)
Del
 


albatross

Supporter
Supporter
Thanks fore both replies. I don't have a figure for the brace height - never supplied one with the bow. I have been shooting the bow with a brace height of 5 1/2" and the bottom of the top nock is 3/8" above square. Would the arrow rubbing the bow make it appear 'stiff'? I have adjusted the brace height on my recurve bow using the 'standard' method, but I am unsure how to do it with an English longbow.
 


Del the Cat

Active member
Fistimelle is what I use... fist with thumb sticking up... a whisker over 6" in my case. I'd reckon 6" +/- 1/2" is fine, I wouldn't go higher unless specified by the bowyer.
Del
 


albatross

Supporter
Supporter
Thanks for that Del.

I had a look at the grip area of the bow and noticed it is quite 'square'. So I am going to take what appears to be a 'shoulder' (for want of a better description) off and make it rounder.
 


Del the Cat

Active member
Thanks for that Del.

I had a look at the grip area of the bow and noticed it is quite 'square'. So I am going to take what appears to be a 'shoulder' (for want of a better description) off and make it rounder.
Follow the maxim of taking off half as much as you think :) !
You can always take a bit more off later... also watch out if you take any off the edge of the arrow plate, it depends how thick the inlay is. I use quite a thick inlay so I can round it off slightly and blend it into the bow. If it's wafer thin you won't be able to do that.
Del
 


Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
Be wary if it's a new bow, as nay work on it can invalidate the warranty.....check with the bowyer first.
 


albatross

Supporter
Supporter
I took your advice Del and used a cabinet scraper to round off the handle behind the arrow plate. Shot Sunday afternoon - not a mark on the bow at the end of the session.

On another point. How important is arrow spine for a longbow. I have found it quite critical with my recurve, but I can shoot a wide range of arrows with my longbow and they all seem to perform reasonable the same?
 


Del the Cat

Active member
I took your advice Del and used a cabinet scraper to round off the handle behind the arrow plate. Shot Sunday afternoon - not a mark on the bow at the end of the session.

On another point. How important is arrow spine for a longbow. I have found it quite critical with my recurve, but I can shoot a wide range of arrows with my longbow and they all seem to perform reasonable the same?
Nice, pleased it worked, it's great when people realize they can tune their own kit :) gives a better connection to the bow and more understanding. ( I hate it when people throw money at kit they they don't understand in the slightest!)
I think you've answered your own question about spine! I shoot the same arrows from just about every bow I make 'cos I don't want a garage full of arrows. Mind that's only up to about 55# I go up to 11/32" shafts and a bit stiffer after that.
Over spined arrows shoot a tad left, underspined just waggle a tad more.
Spine is hugely misunderstood... it's only a rough guide... I've had 50# spine arrows shot from 120# Warbows but because the points are so light they don't explode, mind they leave the bow flexing like a snake :)
Del
 


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