Seasoning Wood

minime

New member
I have just acquired a nice length of hazel and would like to make a bow from but first I gather it needs seasoning so it doesn't break when tillering. Does anyone have any tips when doing this e.g leave bark on, where to store etc etc

Thanks
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
Look at 2 of my threads in this section. 'Bow with bark left on' (I thought it was Birch at first...but I'm pretty sure it's Hazel) and Del's latest hazel bow.
Here's the link http://www.archery-interchange.net/forum/bow-building/21118-bow-bark-left.html
They were from the same log...first one, I seasoned quickly on a radiator which doesn't get above 38degrees C and the second bow I left about 7 months having de-barked it first.
Basically, split your log, paint the ends, de-bark...wait until your patience runs out. You can start roughing out imediately, but don't bend it before it has dried out.
The exception to this is when you clamp it to a former to put some recurve, or deflex/reflec onto the roughed out stave while it's green, and allow it to dry on the former.
There are loads of pics on the 'bark on' thread.
Del
 

minime

New member
Thanks that was very helpful. How long did you leave it on the radiator for? Also what was the rough diameter of your stave and what's the minimum I could realistically work with?
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
I've been keeping a 'bowyer's diary this year, here's some extracts pertaining to that timber, The short answer is, it went from being a log (about 3 1/2 - 4" dia) on the forrest floor to being a bow in a month!

A Year’s Bowyery

Dec 28th gathered (Silver?) Birch log from same area, split into 2 nice staves.
Ends of all staves painted with PVA. (Hazel really)

16th Jan, working down the smaller, worse half of the Hazel stave (bow#2), the moisture content is staying very high (20%) under the bark, which I’m leaving on and hoping to polish, the back is highly crowned, length about 63” 2 ?” wide.
It will make an ‘interesting’ bow to test the timber before using the good stave, which I have de-barked (using the axe a bit like a draw-knife).

18th #2 Coming on nicely moisture content 15% under bark on handle. Put a long string onto it and pulled it back to 40lb, limbs only come back a couple of inches, but it ‘s beginning to realise it’s a bow not a log!

24th #2 I’ve take a spokeshave to the back as the steep crown wasn’t allowing the draw weight to come down whilst maintaining the desired width. This means I lose the bark, but I can keep it on the handle. Meanwhile the remaining bark is a good guideline as the growth rings are v indistinct on the back.
I’ve got the final string on now and it’s come back to 40lb @ 21”, it’s strung fairly low which I shall retain for max power, It’s looking rather pretty.

26th #2 Virtually finished 40lb@28”.
Shoots 170 yards, it’s had a coat of varnish (B&Q quick drying satin) wiped on with a rag which has been rubbed down and a second coat done.
The tips of the limbs have been lightened and the nocks finished off. I’ve added a Water Buffalo horn arrow plate, I’ll rub it down a bit at the limb tips and give it a final wipe of varnish. I’ve put my monogram and details on it.
I’m pleased with it.

Del
(Did you see the vid of it shooting? (it's in a post near the end of that thread)
 

minime

New member
Wow I didn't realise how quickly the transformation took! Why do you paint PVA glue on the tips if your goal is to season the wood a bit, and if I were to debark the whole thing would I need to paint the whole stave in PVA?
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
Checking (splits due to drying out) start at the ends of a stave if drying is too quick and can happen pretty quick due to all that exposed end grain. I seal the ends ASAP after sawing, the rest of the stave doesn't need sealing, although it's best to go over the last half inch when you are doing the ends...
Try leaving an off cut from the end of a log lying about and see how quickly it splits. (My guess is youll have splitting in a day or two)
When splitting a log, there is often a good stave and a bad stave... the bad stave is v useful for playing/experimenting with while the good one is seasoning properly.
Once a split has started it can run a long way, that's why it's best to stop 'em in the first place, also why it's best to have some spare length on your stave...you can trim off an inch or so as tillering progresses.


Del
 

minime

New member
Thanks very much for the advice. I've started some rough shaping to the point where it's starting to flex a bit, and I've sealed the ends. Now just the waiting part while it dries out!
 
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