Self nock to fletch measurement

52BIGSBY

Member
Hello All,
I am embarking on my first "self nock" 12 arrow set build. These will be regular users, and as such I know that there is a chance of the nock suffering damage, particularly on shared butts. (Almost no danger if just me!) With this in mind I am considering making the arrows in inch longer than my current ones, and moving the fletchings slightly forward. This will enable me to simply remove the damaged end, taper, and stick on a plastic nock thus prolonging arrow life. Are there any issues regarding arrow flight/fletch placement that I should be aware of before I start? Will this alter the spine noticeably? 40-45lb POC 28" shafts (at present), with 4" fletchings, 100 gramme taper tips.
Thank you for any help, and sorry if this has been previously covered and I have not found it.
Richard.
 

Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
It may alter the spine slightly, but I doubt by any major amount (stands back and allows to be corrected). The plan though is an interesting one, I thing it really depends on how the wood when damaged splits. Isn't going to help much if a huge chunk is taken out if/when struck.

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It may alter the spine slightly, but I doubt by any major amount (stands back and allows to be corrected). The plan though is an interesting one, I thing it really depends on how the wood when damaged splits. Isn't going to help much if a huge chunk is taken out if/when struck.
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
I don't think it matters too much. I once made a set with quite a gap between nock and fletchings due to some mistake with my first try at a home made fletching jig... they looked odd but flew ok.
Del
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Thanks Del, hope all well with you.
I am inserting horn strips at right angles to the nock, so am hoping that damage would be limited. I will have to work out optimum fletch position.
Thank you,
Richard.
 

bobnewboy

Member
Whether its Horn inserts or wrapped with silk thread and HMG matrix, if another arrow hits the nock it will be toast in every case. I always use self nocks bound with silk thread impregnated with HMG, and when my self nocks are hit end-on, the splitting is limited to the beginning of the binding. It sounds like a good idea to be able to reuse the arrows if they are struck in a butt. Moving the fletchings forwards a little will have very little effect, just producing a tiny reduction of the steering leverage the the fletchings can apply, thats all.
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Hello Bob,
What is HMG? I am not sure I understand your post. Are you saying that the difference between toasting the arrow depends on the application of impregnated silk thread , and that the horn insert, or just coated silk thread makes no difference?
Thank you for clarification.
Richard.
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
Hi Richard, yeah, all good here, V windy tho'. I expect the sea is a bit rough down your way.
The horn strips are only really necessary on heavy bows, but they are quite fun to do and look cool.
As Bob says the binding (I use thin linen thread with low viscosity superglue on it) will usually stop a split.
If you just loose one side of the nock. It can have another bit of wood glued on by filing off the binding, rasp/filing down to a clean flat surface, glueing on a sliver of wood (from a ready supply of old broken arrows ;) ) reshaping the nock and re binding. A bit fiddly but not much more work than doing the original self nock.
Del
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Thanks,
That is a better solution, I consider that scarfing(?) and binding a new nock side is better than resorting to plastic. I will fletch as usual and see what happens breakage wise.
I am using Wilkinsons cheap and cheerful super glue for appropriate duties, quite runny. About right? I will look into buying linen or silk thread.
Thanks for the assistance.
Richard.
 
D

Deleted member 7654

Guest
Yeah, scarfing sounds right.
Quicks do linen thread suitable for the purpose it's pretty fine and will make bowstrings too if you want a 'primitive' string.
A reel will last forever! I've just had a shufti on their site and it's out of stock at the mo'.
I can pop a few yards in an envelope and post it to you if you want to try it out on some arrows, it doesn't take much per arrow. It prob takes more to hold onto and tie the knot than it actually uses! I use about 10" per arrow I think, I only go round about 9 or 10 turns.
The low viscosity superglue works well as it just soaks in v quick and it stops the knot coming undone too. I find a scrap of old plastic bag is handy to wipe over it to smooth down any loose ends without sticking my fingers together.
PM me your address if you want a bit.
Del
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Thanks again,
I have just found 100mtrs of 4/20 silk thread that is used by those who make bindings on cane fishing rods. This is the finest gauge they use, so it should suffice. ?2! I have also found to borrow a "vibrating" etching pen thing, so I can mark them as mine. Although more effort, I am really looking forward to shooting these, and yes, I think the horn inserts will look good. I thought about cresting, but decided I would like a more workmanlike result. Have access to band saw as well now to make the horn strip inserts.
Richard.

R.
 

bobnewboy

Member
Hi Richard, HMG is a common waterproof glue generally used for fletching. Many archery suppliers sell it, and i have it in my arrow-makings box. Binding the outside of a self nock and then soaking the binding in glue results in a very strong nock, which will split less (a shorter length) than a horn reinforced nock on being hit.

I have scarfed in v-jointed pieces of hardwood for repairing nocks on wooden arrows. It is a bit fiddly and a fair bit of work, but looks v nice when done.

Cheers, Bob
 

52BIGSBY

Member
Thanks Archers,
I have stuck on the piles, cut to length, rubbed in three coats of Danish oil, band sawed my horn grooves, and have now just cut the horn to size then sanded the grooves to a snug but not tight fit. I will glue later. I did create quite a lot of horn dust when cutting it, and although I have since disposed of it, wonder if it could have been used for something? The silk thread has arrived as is quite thin! It will look great though when laid.
I met a local longbow enthusiast by accident today (with bird of prey!), and we got chatting about it all (as you can imagine). He recommended ash arrow shafts. I expect I could buy these somewhere, but how could I ensure that the characteristics of the "set" would be as consistent as those I roll, weigh and spine check at my local Quicks?
Anyway, slowly but surely,
Richard.
 

52BIGSBY

Member
I might try this Thursday, hoping that work does not intrude. The arrows are slow work. I thought that the horn extruding would file easily, but not so with my rather knackered files....
I now have my belt sander back and will remove the unwanted tabs with that. -Carefully-. I could have mixed the horn dust with the glue?
Richard.
 

Zhoo Zhoo

Member
I'm inspired now and think I could give it a go myself. I found a great blog yesterday on making self nocks. The horn strips can look quite beautiful once flush with the shaft and polished. I also might finally have found a use for the mouse sander my husband bought and never used. However I think the best use of the horn dust will be as a nitrogen-rich fertiliser around the runner beans!
Sue
 
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