Step by step arrow making ?

Restless Native

New member
Hi,
Having always used shop built wooden arrows for my field archery I would now like to have a go at making my own. Looking through this part of the forum it seems that the majority of posts are from archers who already have some knowledge in arrow making. I know that there are a few books available through Amazon on the subject and that arrow making days are run by some archery shops (but none near me as far as I know).

On a flyfishing forum that I am a member on there is a fly dressing section in which members post step by step images in dressing various fly patterns, from fixing the hook in the vice through to the finished fly. This is a popular part of the forum where ideas and problems with certain patterns and techniques can be discussed.

Would there be any interest and support for something similar in this part of the forum for building arrows ? It could perhaps contain a basic list of tools and materials with explanations on why certain things are used. Explanations on arrow weights and spines could be included. A series of images from starting construction to the finished arrow could be a great help to archers starting out in arrow building. This could then be a sticky on the forum perhaps.

Of course it would require the input from experienced arrow building archers to make it work.............................................................................................................

Over to you. :bowarrow:
 

Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
I have done a step by step guide some time ago which with some searching can be found some where on this forum. But that was down to using bought shafts, I've never done the previous work e.g. log splitting, planking, etc.
 

Restless Native

New member
A little of both I guess FP. I suppose any medium available to an archer just starting out arrow building who may not have access to being physically taught by another archer can only be a good thing. Thanks to you ravens eye. I will track that down.
 

Green Beetle

New member
Hi,
Having always used shop built wooden arrows for my field archery I would now like to have a go at making my own. Looking through this part of the forum it seems that the majority of posts are from archers who already have some knowledge in arrow making. I know that there are a few books available through Amazon on the subject and that arrow making days are run by some archery shops (but none near me as far as I know).

On a flyfishing forum that I am a member on there is a fly dressing section in which members post step by step images in dressing various fly patterns, from fixing the hook in the vice through to the finished fly. This is a popular part of the forum where ideas and problems with certain patterns and techniques can be discussed.

Would there be any interest and support for something similar in this part of the forum for building arrows ? It could perhaps contain a basic list of tools and materials with explanations on why certain things are used. Explanations on arrow weights and spines could be included. A series of images from starting construction to the finished arrow could be a great help to archers starting out in arrow building. This could then be a sticky on the forum perhaps.

Of course it would require the input from experienced arrow building archers to make it work.............................................................................................................

Over to you. :bowarrow:
I'd welcome a 'how to' section on building wooden arrows, Rockarcher, just as you suggest. Fingers crossed! I've recently put aside my recurve for a bit and bought a KG Osprey. I've already managed to smash one wooden arrow and damage a couple of others. This could get expensive and I'd like to have a go at making my own.
 
That's exactly the reason I decided to start making my own.

Bought a Flatbow and a dozen arrows. Within 4 weeks I was down to 5 arrows through breakages, losing fletchings and losing points.

Just by buying a fletching jig I've been able to sort out the arrows that lost fletchings and I have started to make a new set but the shop I ordered from sent me the wrong sized nocks 😔

From what I understand each set you make will be better than the last and you will soon be making better arrows than you would buy ready made from a shop.

Also you can really customise them however you want.
 

Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
Found it, though might need updating since I last wrote it.

Making wooden arrows is relativly easy once you get going, and each set you will often find better than the last as you learn different techniques, and preferences, the way I do it is;

Step one:
Buying supplies;
First stage of this is deciding what you want your arrows for, indoors/outdoors, close or long range. This will help you narrow down what you need in terms of pile weight and fletching size. (larger fletchings for indoors and closer range, smaller fletchings for outdoors and longer ranges).

Woods: What would you like is down to your opinion and use, POC is common but others prefer pine, or silca spruce. The general rule of thumb is to get shafts that are spined 10lb less than your (english) longbow weight. so if you have a 40lb bow, you should buy 30lb spined shafts.

Piles: Steel/Brass, Bullet/Field, the choice really is yours each has pros and cons e.g. Steel is more hard wearing than brass, but still rust if gets wet and not dried and oiled properly after shoots. You'll also have to choice between tapered or parallel. Personally I prefer tapered piles as I find them easier and quicker to fit, and easier to make sure they are center. Though others prefer parallel.

Once you have your bits bought its only a question of putting things together. Personally I tend to weight shafts and piles before putting them together and try and match up so that each arrow is roughly the same weight.

Stage 1:
I start with pulling the pile on first, prep the wood using either a tapering or parallel fitting tool and push the pile on, gluing with a 2 part expoxy resin, slow drying works best. Araldite is good and easy to come by, put the glue down one side of the inside of the pile and push hard onto the shaft, turn the shaft whilst pushing to allow the glue to spread all around the inside of the pile and push out any air. Once this is done wipe any excess glue and leave to dry. though keep an eye on them, if air is trapped it can push the pile off the wood (which is a problem i've found more with parallel tips), also more glue can run out and needs wiping off. To make sure you get a really good fit, get a scrap bit of wood and place the tip against it. Hold the shaft right behind the head and force point down ont to he wood, this shouldn't damage the point and should allow you to get a good fit.

Stage 2:
Once dry I spin the pointed shafts on my hand to check for straightness. If straight its put to one side, if bent I take it to the kitchen and using steam from a boiling pan of water through a funnel onto the bent bit of the shaft I straighten the shaft out once more.

Stage 3:
Measuring each shaft in turn I cut them down to size (it doesn't matter if you do this before stage 2, but if you do just check to see if its still the same length it may have gained a few mm from being straightned). Once cut to size, taper the back end and glue on the nock (I use super glue for this) making sure that the groove in the nock is at a right angle to the grain of the shaft.

Stage 4:
Its now time to treat the wood. I use Danish oil for this other use varnish. I apply the oil with a paint brush and then rub down with a cloth (one of those yellow polishing cloths), I do it again and then allow to dry fully. The repeat once more. Others use wire wood as a rub down, but again thats down to your choice.

Stage 5:
I tend to put on the fletchings at this point, its best to use a fletching jig to make sure they are in teh right position, there are lots of opinions on what is a good one to use. Also BEFORE gluing on your fletchings make sure they are all from the same wing. If it doesn't say on the packet, lie them out in front of you, you will notice they have a slight curve and like a white strip at the bottom. To know they are from the same side the white strip and curves should all be the same, if one isn't then its likely its from the other side to the rest.
I glue my fletchings on with fletching glue, though again there are many opinions about what glue to use. So I apply to the glue along the bottom of the fletching and stick it on using the jig allowing 30-1hr between fletchings, glue depending. Once done, rotate the arrow and repeat until you have the three fletchings on. Some people tend to put an extra bit of glue on the fletching tip to help again the sharp leading point. Personally I whip mine on, firstly it protects the fingers from the sharp point, and also makes sure your fletchings aren't going to go anywhere (my whipping has turned aside compound arrows stopping the shaft being damaged) and also gives it the medieval look.

You can buy whipping thread from archery shops, or anywhere that sells either linin or silk thread, your choice. There are videos on youtube on whipping. Personally I put down a layer of PVA on the wood, lie the end of the thread straight out from teh tip of the cock feather and holding it in place wind it around the shaft and tip and then carefully through each fletching in steady stages. Once at the top end of the fletching I just wrap it and glue it. You can try trapping it under the wound thread using a needle but I generally don't. Once the glue has dried apply a layer of clear (or your own colour preferance) nail varnish on at either end to seal and water proof. you can also use wax for this as well.

Stage 6: Cresting
This is an optional choice, though if you go to competitions its good to have to help recognise your arrows. Also some comps require your initials and that the arrows are numbered. I tend to draw/paint a symbol of a raven on mine, with either water based acrylic, or a sharpie pen, and after giving it time to dry go over it with another coat of oil/varnish. Note some varnishes/oils might smudge your design so its good to test them on an off cut before you mess your arrows up. Often cresting is just bands of the same colours around the shaft, but its really up to you, but I would suggest you keep any cresting more towards the fletching end rather than the point end for two reasons;
1) Some judges get a bit picky about cresting towards the point as it could be used as an aiming aid.
2) they'll wear off faster towards the point through hitting the straw/foam/ground.

Stage 7: Treatment
Though optional its again a good idea to give your arrows a rub down with beeswax, or a polish containing beeswax. It helps keep dirt out and helps stop things sticking to it.


Hope this helps.
 

Black Sun

Member
Raven - decent place to start with :thumbsup: good job - but it is probably worth pointing out to all of the less experienced that the spine selection Raven mentions is for ELB - it isn't the same for flatbows, or hunting recurves. For example

* my off the shelf Bucktrail Antelope 40#@28" needs 40-45# spine arrows
* my Border Reiver with Hex6 limbs 46#@28" needs 65-70# spine arrows

The differences being in the power output and efficiency of the bow (clearly the Border Reiver being much better than the Bucktrail!). Just be aware that the type of bow you're shooting is going to affect the spine of your arrows.
 

WillS

New member
I'm working on a full build log of a set of Mary Rose replica arrows, from splitting and hand-shaping the timber shafts to fletching with goose feathers, natural hide glues (and how to make those) bindings, wax compounds etc, and forging the heads. I don't know if something quite so specific is of any interest to people on here, as it's mainly target based but if there's any interest I'll post it once done.
 

Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
I'm working on a full build log of a set of Mary Rose replica arrows, from splitting and hand-shaping the timber shafts to fletching with goose feathers, natural hide glues (and how to make those) bindings, wax compounds etc, and forging the heads. I don't know if something quite so specific is of any interest to people on here, as it's mainly target based but if there's any interest I'll post it once done.
I'd like to see that.
 

Green Beetle

New member
Which jig did you buy? I have a Decut Nexus which I bought months ago but still unused as yet. The business end is very wobbly and I'm not impressed with it. I've tried tightening assorted screws and even taken it apart to see what's going on. Nothing obvious that I can adjust so having to assume that it's just badly made or something important (what?) is missing from the adjustment block thingy. Grrr. Have hunted around on t'internet for reviews and they are mixed. Probably had it too long to return to the shop.

Update. Have completely dismantled it again and remantled it. Not so wobbly now.
 

albatross

Supporter
Supporter
AIUK Saviour
Be very careful if you decide to build your own arrows! I used to do a lot of fly fishing. However since I started building my own stuff I have not done a single day's fishing! You start off by buying the shafts and before you know it you are thinking about how to improve them! Then you start 'footing' the shafts. Tapering the shafts. Barrelling the shafts. Trying various point weights. Trying different woods. Designing your own crestings. It never stops. I don't know of any medicine available on the high street to treat this condition. So. You have been warned!
 

Green Beetle

New member
Be very careful if you decide to build your own arrows! I used to do a lot of fly fishing. However since I started building my own stuff I have not done a single day's fishing! You start off by buying the shafts and before you know it you are thinking about how to improve them! Then you start 'footing' the shafts. Tapering the shafts. Barrelling the shafts. Trying various point weights. Trying different woods. Designing your own crestings. It never stops. I don't know of any medicine available on the high street to treat this condition. So. You have been warned!
I feared as much, albatross. Thanks for the warning. I'm not sure there is much you can do about it. Mind you, given how badly I shoot any excuse to stay off the line is probably welcome.

Oddly enough I have always wanted to try tying flies - not interested in the actual fly fishing but was bowled over by the different types and colours and general prettiness of them when I was a child and for some reason in a fishing tackle shop. Now you've got me thinking about it again. Sigh.
 

Yew Selfbow

Active member
Ok a couple of answers

Silverbow ... heed Albatross's warning ... arrow making is wonderfully addictive

Wills ... get it posted .. a lot of folk would like to see what you've done

and finally .... there's a terrific little book by Bill Searle called Fletchery The art of making matched arrows ... it's the only arrow making book you'll ever need
 

WillS

New member
Will do, I'm still fiddling with the verdigris compound recipe, and I need to forge the heads but once they're done I'll do a full write up.
 

Restless Native

New member
Could not agree more Albatross. Fly fishing is a wonderful pastime and can be as simple or tackle intensive as you wish to make it. I thought that I would save money by tying my own flies......��������. Looks like arrow making could be the same, still going to do it though. Thanks for all the replies so for, I still think there is a call for a photographic step by step to build a simple wooden arrow on the forum though.
 
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