String thickness and nock fit

4d4m

Active member
I'm dipping my toes into string making.

I'd like to know if there are any rules of thumb for what number of strands of which material, served with which serving thread fits what nock sizes.
There's nothing worse than getting a new string to find it's too slack on your nocks. I know there's trial and error but I'd like to minimise waste and re-work if possible.
 

AndyS

Supporter
Supporter
I can't offer you much as rules of thumb, but I've found that colour can also affect the fit due to the differing amounts of wax.
With 8190 I found that 20 strands of white gave me the same nock fit as 16 of red (or at least they were both sold to me as 8190), that's after removing excess wax before serving, and using the same serving material and tension.

Rather than making up a whole string for trial and error, you can use just a "mini string" loop around one end of the jig with the appropriate number of strands, doesn't need end-serving, just serve a short length in the middle to check the nock fit - it doesn't use much thread to get a good idea of what you need.

Also small or large groove sizes aren't exactly the same across different nock makers, so if you've got a good fit or recommendation for say an Easton small groove - it's likely you'd need to tweak it slightly larger for a Beiter small groove.

For what it's worth these have worked for me, but no guarantees! I think the thickness of a strand may have changed at some point on either 8125 or 8190, but I'm just going off whatever version I had at the time.
  • FF+ 20 strands orange \ 0.021 Angel Majesty - Beiter large groove
  • FF+ 16 strands orange \ 0.021 Angel Majesty - Beiter small groove
  • 8125 16 strands Red \ 0.018 Angel Majesty - Beiter small groove
  • 8190 16 strands red \ 0.018 Angel Majesty - Easton small groove
  • 8190 20 strands white \ 0.018 Angel Majesty - Easton small groove
 

4d4m

Active member
Useful info nonetheless thanks.

Rather than making up a whole string for trial and error, you can use just a "mini string" loop around one end of the jig with the appropriate number of strands, doesn't need end-serving, just serve a short length in the middle to check the nock fit - it doesn't use much thread to get a good idea of what you need.
Good tip cheers. I wonder if Flemish vs endless makes a difference, but assuming the same number of strands I think the only difference at the centre serving is the Flemish starts off with more twists.

What I think would be useful is a database of nock types with internal sizes. If such a thing doesn't exist I have a vernier gauge with interior as well as exterior jaws plus a small selection of nocks. I could make a start.
 

Senlac

Supporter
Supporter
Suck it and see..... (1) chose your preferred string material & serving material; (2) guess the number of strands (e.g. 18); (3) wind-on the [18] strands just between the two end posts of the string-jig; (4) serve an inch or so with your serving jig. Then see how this fits your nocks. If they're too loose, wind-on 2 or 4 more strands and serve them, and see how that fits your nocks. You'll quickly find out how many strands is right for your nocks. Then you can either make a string with that number of strands, or make a string with fewer strands - and add a few extra ones just under the serving.
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
The "extra strands under the serving" thing is useful enough to recommend trying to underestimate how many strands you need. Going over is a pain, but under is relatively easy to compensate.
 

AndyS

Supporter
Supporter
Going over is a pain
If it's an endless loop, you can always cut out an individual strand or two - just separate one from the bundle and trim it off carefully by the end servings. It's not perfect, you end up with an extra strand or two in the end loops, but nothing's going to pull through and you still have a usable string with a decent nock fit.
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
If it's an endless loop, you can always cut out an individual strand or two - just separate one from the bundle and trim it off carefully by the end servings. It's not perfect, you end up with an extra strand or two in the end loops, but nothing's going to pull through and you still have a usable string with a decent nock fit.
I knew a friend who did that, but I was always more comfortable just remaking the string.
Recently my strings have all been laid in, so I don't think it's an option.
 

albatross

Supporter
Supporter
AIUK Saviour
I make continuous loop strings for club members. To overcome the variations in string strand counts and nock sizes I have a range of braided fishing lines. They tell me the number of strands and material (if they know it) and the nock size i.e large or small G nock. I can then select the appropriate fishing line diameter (breaking strain) to give them the best nock fit. I test each nock as I make the centre serving adjusting the serving spool tension to get it as near as possible.
 

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
Sorry I don't understand the term, what is a "laid in" string?
Traditional method.
Modern strings tend to be continuous loops, with serving at the ends holding them together, made on a jig.
Laying in is more like when you make a rope, with bundles of strands twisted together in such a way that the internal tension keeps them from unravelling, only a centre serving is applied.
There's lots of videos about it - this one from Merlin is fairly clear (actual string making starts after about minute 7:15)
 
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