Stringwalking Nocking Point Height

MikeD

New member
I've been reading... Now I suspect my nocking point is low compared with others. Am I right thinking if I increase the nocking point height I'll get a longer point-on distance? Geometry was never my strongest subject.

My nocking point is currently at 7/16", but I'm seeing suggestions of 13/16" to as much as 17/16".

I'm currently point-on at about 58 yards, which seems short for 43lbs on my fingers, with a 27.5" arrow, and an index finger in corner of mouth anchor.

Oh, and tiller is set even with Hex 5 limbs.
 


steve Morley

New member
I've been reading... Now I suspect my nocking point is low compared with others. Am I right thinking if I increase the nocking point height I'll get a longer point-on distance? Geometry was never my strongest subject.

My nocking point is currently at 7/16", but I'm seeing suggestions of 13/16" to as much as 17/16".

I'm currently point-on at about 58 yards, which seems short for 43lbs on my fingers, with a 27.5" arrow, and an index finger in corner of mouth anchor.

Oh, and tiller is set even with Hex 5 limbs.
I'm 60 yards with 42# CV limbs so your point on sounds about right, the nock point is determined by bareshaft. I normally do an initial 3 under tune between 10-15 yards and then start my Stringwalking tuning from 20y and out (under 20y the crawls are too big to give a true bareshaft reading) and I set my final bareshaft tune at 30 yards which is my mid crawl point.

My nock point is 7mm, a high nock point will reduce your point on distance.
 


MikeD

New member
Hi Steve,

What is your nocking point height?

Certainly at 20 yards a bare shaft is indicating a high NP, but it was much closer at 30 yards.

I know there is a degree of black magic to stringwalking tuning, but when I'm seeing mentions of point on at 70 metres with a similar set up I begin to wonder.
 


steve Morley

New member
Hi Steve,

I'm seeing mentions of point on at 70 metres with a similar set up I begin to wonder.
70m point on seems of no advantage for Stringwalking unless you're planning shooting only 70m target competitions, most Stringwalkers are shooting Field/3D, IFAA Field although 80y max do have most shots 60y and under, 3D is 60y max. WA Field 55m max, 3D is 30m max, so a 60y point on with 30y mid point crawl is pretty useful for most Stringwalking competitions.
 


MikeD

New member
70m point on seems of no advantage for Stringwalking unless you're planning shooting only 70m target competitions, most Stringwalkers are shooting Field/3D, IFAA Field although 80y max do have most shots 60y and under, 3D is 60y max. WA Field 55m max, 3D is 30m max, so a 60y point on with 30y mid point crawl is pretty useful for most Stringwalking competitions.
Yup, I get all that :) However 60 yards would be better than 58. I realise that moving the nocking point for that may mean that a bareshaft tune is better at 32 yards than 30, but that doesn't matter, it's still going to be nock high at 20 yards.

So assuming I don't have clearance issues, which way do I move the nocking point to get 2 or 3 yards more distance for the point-on?
 


BillM

Member
Mike, I raised my nocking point on my longbow and horsebow compared to the height on my recurve and the arrows leave the bows cleaner. I still use meditteranian loose but I shoot with people who string walk. The thing I have noticed is that the nock point set is good for a small range of distances. Once they start string walking the arrows start to porpoise. It is quite noticible on the longer distances but unless you simply clip the arrow on to the centre serving bare of any addition and knowing what the height above sqaure is for all distances shot then you will get different shots every time.

BillM
 


blakey

Active member
I've been reading... Now I suspect my nocking point is low compared with others. Am I right thinking if I increase the nocking point height I'll get a longer point-on distance? Geometry was never my strongest subject.

My nocking point is currently at 7/16", but I'm seeing suggestions of 13/16" to as much as 17/16".

I'm currently point-on at about 58 yards, which seems short for 43lbs on my fingers, with a 27.5" arrow, and an index finger in corner of mouth anchor.

Oh, and tiller is set even with Hex 5 limbs.
I'm wondering what arrows you blokes are shooting. I'm getting a POB at 60M with 30 lbs limbs and a corner mouth anchor?
 


steve Morley

New member
I'm wondering what arrows you blokes are shooting. I'm getting a POB at 60M with 30 lbs limbs and a corner mouth anchor?
29" 315g arrow Kvanes, I think if you're under 28" draw it's hard to get those fast speeds the guys with Gorilla arms get. I can get longer point on but 60y suits my needs for IFAA and WA
 


blakey

Active member
29" 315g arrow Kvanes, I think if you're under 28" draw it's hard to get those fast speeds the guys with Gorilla arms get. I can get longer point on but 60y suits my needs for IFAA and WA
No gorilla (unfortunately). I just shoot lightweight Carbon Ones. 50M is our maximum down here so I have to string walk from the get go. :)
 


steve Morley

New member
I was shooting C1's last year, a very capable arrow for the price.

I got the CT Cheetah 3D's for this year, fatter shaft more FOC and only 5g heavier than my C1's, first impressions are that these are going to be ideal for WA3D.
 


MikeD

New member
I'm wondering what arrows you blokes are shooting. I'm getting a POB at 60M with 30 lbs limbs and a corner mouth anchor?
This is why I'm not sure my set up is correct and I'm trying to understand the variables that determine PO distance. That is the effect of Nocking point height on the trajectory when aiming with the point. I've seen enough now to believe aiming with the point, a shorter arrow takes a higher trajectory than a longer one.
 


blakey

Active member
This is why I'm not sure my set up is correct and I'm trying to understand the variables that determine PO distance. That is the effect of Nocking point height on the trajectory when aiming with the point. I've seen enough now to believe aiming with the point, a shorter arrow takes a higher trajectory than a longer one.
Generally speaking the shorter the arrow the further it will go. Nocking point for stringwalking is a weird one. I've seen various recommends. I think MartinO says around 15mm. It definitely seems to be higher than for a normal target setup. A high NP usually reduces distance. But with Stringwalking everything's about compromise because of the bow going out of tune with the long crawls. Another variable is tiller. Many people go negative. The other thing is spine. I've finally settled on a much higher spine than I would normally shoot. Not that I'm an expert. Steve Morley is. Probably the best forum to get barebow advice is Tradtalk. They've got a lot of experts lurking there, incl Steve. :)
 


MikeD

New member
I've made a lot of progress of the last 4 days. Starting with an email exchange with Border Bows, which lead to me reducing the brace height to 7.5". This required a longer string. I set to tuning for indoors on Thursday evening. It took most of the evening to get the centre-shot and button pressure right after first setting the nocking point height for the bareshaft. Finally I had a spot sized group in the middle with my preferred sight picture with the string just to the right of the arrow shaft at the button. I checked the centre-shot, it's straight down the middle, as you would set up for a compound bow.

I setup a second button to the same settings and a second string for outdoor shooting. This turned out to be quick to tune at 30 yards. At first the bareshaft was high and right, indicating weak, but as I lowered the bareshaft it also moved into the group horizontally. And so off to the 80 yarder.

I'm now point on at just over 65 yards. I can get a scoring arrow at 70 yards aiming at the top of the face, and at 80 yards using the shelf. So I'm only gapping for 4 arrows on a field round or 2 on a hunter round :)

I went on to sort out the shorter distances and did hit a problem. At 15 yards and 11 the fletches and nock get in the way, so I can't see the spot or get my string picture correct. However by changing anchor from index finger against an eye tooth to middle finger I sorted that out.
 


steve Morley

New member
The dark art of Stringwalking requires us to think outside the box sometimes, once you've nailed the problem it is very satisfying.

Have FUN.
 


steve Morley

New member
Thanks Steve. Shoot well at the World Indoors this weekend!

Thanks, although I won our Indoor Nationals my scores were way down and I was finding it really hard work to control the shot so I had a weeks break and spent the whole week taking logs out of our forest then a few days to rest my muscles, yesterday was my first scored round, felt good and much more relaxed. I'm pretty sure the 293 WR will go next week, Timo Leskinen has been shooting some awesome scores in Finland 297/298, we might even see a perfect 300 from him if we're lucky.

I'm shooting but also helping to run the tourney, so when not shooting I'll be setting up the targets, bow inspection and operating the timing system etc

 


MikeD

New member
WA legal, same as me, I'm just not with such high scores, put a sight, clicker and Stabs and I would still likely not hit 298 lol
Oh that's even better. I'm sticking with WA legal, even though I'm not likely to shoot any WA field at the moment. Not having stabilisers to drag through the woods was one of the attractions.

As for 298, that was my competition PB shooting AMFU (compound unlimited) at an SFAA indoor champs, and I was 2nd.
 


blakey

Active member
Thanks, although I won our Indoor Nationals my scores were way down and I was finding it really hard work to control the shot so I had a weeks break and spent the whole week taking logs out of our forest then a few days to rest my muscles, yesterday was my first scored round, felt good and much more relaxed. I'm pretty sure the 293 WR will go next week, Timo Leskinen has been shooting some awesome scores in Finland 297/298, we might even see a perfect 300 from him if we're lucky.

I'm shooting but also helping to run the tourney, so when not shooting I'll be setting up the targets, bow inspection and operating the timing system etc

Hi Steve, that's some shooting from Timo. Do you happen to know what kind of poundage he shoots? Cherrs
 


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