Using Carbon X-busters / Easton FatBoys with Barebow?? Please Advise

Tomlavallin

New member
Hey guys, I am looking to improve my shooting for indoor competitions (particularly BUCS Indoors) and I am looking to change my set-up to improve this, mainly the arrows that I am using. My current set-up is:

- Kaya K1, 28# long
- Winact VT Riser, 25" (Making 70" bow)
- Draw length is 29.5", resulting in 34# on the fingers
- Shooting Easton ACC, Spine 3L-18/620
- Spigarelli ZT rest, its a wrap-around barebow rest so it can accommodate any diameter arrow with tuning.

I have discussed with a couple of employees at my archery shop about the possibility of using Carbon X-Busters (or similar large diameter carbon arrows). This would give the advantage of having a large diameter to give increased chance of line-cutters, which is very good for barebow shooting. They said that it will be 'different', but they say that if i was to use the arrows that are the the lowest spine, use like a 200 grain point, increase my poundage up to 38# on the fingers and use 31.5" arrows, it may be possible.

The fletchings to use would also be 4" Feathers, with a possible helical on them. I may need to only use 2 fletchings due to the rest but I'm not sure.

I would appreciate any and all advice about this set-up, whether it is a good idea, if it is possible and if it should or should not be done. I'm aware that this set-up is rare (never seen it myself) and it make look stupid, but if it works then it can't be stupid

Kind regards,

Tom
 

MartinO

New member
I have tried the x-Busters, but didn?t get any really good results with them. They don?t seem as forgiving as ordinary X7 arrows. I shot about 4-5 points less in average on a 30 arrow round in comparison to X7 during about 40 30-arrow test rounds where I randomly switched arrows. Overall, all carbon arrows are a bit more sensitive than Alu/Carbon or pure alu, in my opinion. That's especially true in stringwalking barebow where the alu seems to handle the first "dry fire shock" of the stringwalking arrow acceleration phase better than carbon. Also, the x-Busters comes a bit too short even uncut. A long arrow is an advantage to stringwalkers since it makes it possible to stay close to the arrow. That makes the bow behave better and be more forgiving.

200 grain points is nice and quiet too shoot, but that arrow weight will totally kick your ass as soon as you do even small draw length mistakes. My suggestion for you to maximize your indoor performance would be to try either X7 2314 or 2312 with 125 grain points. Uncut shafts ofcourse. 5" turkey vanes. If you are an archer that makes most mistakes with the bow arm, go 2312 since it?s a bit lighter and will go out of the bow a bit earlier if you get bowarm collapses. If you are more a stiff-fingers kind of archer when you do bad shots, you will gain points with the heavier and more stable 2314 instead.

Hey guys, I am looking to improve my shooting for indoor competitions (particularly BUCS Indoors) and I am looking to change my set-up to improve this, mainly the arrows that I am using. My current set-up is:

- Kaya K1, 28# long
- Winact VT Riser, 25" (Making 70" bow)
- Draw length is 29.5", resulting in 34# on the fingers
- Shooting Easton ACC, Spine 3L-18/620
- Spigarelli ZT rest, its a wrap-around barebow rest so it can accommodate any diameter arrow with tuning.

I have discussed with a couple of employees at my archery shop about the possibility of using Carbon X-Busters (or similar large diameter carbon arrows). This would give the advantage of having a large diameter to give increased chance of line-cutters, which is very good for barebow shooting. They said that it will be 'different', but they say that if i was to use the arrows that are the the lowest spine, use like a 200 grain point, increase my poundage up to 38# on the fingers and use 31.5" arrows, it may be possible.

The fletchings to use would also be 4" Feathers, with a possible helical on them. I may need to only use 2 fletchings due to the rest but I'm not sure.

I would appreciate any and all advice about this set-up, whether it is a good idea, if it is possible and if it should or should not be done. I'm aware that this set-up is rare (never seen it myself) and it make look stupid, but if it works then it can't be stupid

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Top