Because they can charge that much and sell to the most discerning?? There is nothing worse than a cheap long rod; but how can you avoid that?£500++ long rods.
Just WHY?!!
Buy the best???
Pay more??
Because they can charge that much and sell to the most discerning?? There is nothing worse than a cheap long rod; but how can you avoid that?£500++ long rods.
Just WHY?!!
But it’s a weighted rod.Because they can charge that much and sell to the most discerning?? There is nothing worse than a cheap long rod; but how can you avoid that?
Buy the best???
Pay more??
And that’s the trap; “well made.”Hi Matt, my post was a follow on to the one numbered 159.
It's a rigid rod with a weight on the far end. Length and weight can vary from archer to archer.
I would pay for a well made one; anything above that on the price scale is for those who like high prices.
But in a years time nobody looking back will be able to find these topics and we will just be repeating ourselves - this thread has turned into that Miscellaneous Folder we put stuff rather than in its own folder.Ah, but we need to discus that here!
Longrods should be rated by wobbleosity and gullibility
Del
I don't worry about it too much, as long as it gets there I settle later but I'm not the best poster boy for form or technique. Being compound off fingers helps. I know some who draw to the chest in the first instance after nasty experiences with strings. Doesn't seem to affect the end result, probably more critical to other styles / bows.I would like to find out what others think about "The draw".
After watching beginners for nearly 40 years, many of them struggle a little at the very early stages of their beginners' course, then settle into a fairly smooth routine.
Some settle into a draw style that seems less smooth than others; some " make it look easy".
My view is that the draw itself is far more than a necessary action; an action you have to do in order to eventually make a shot.
To my way of thinking the draw is the equivalent of a long jumper's run up. If they mess up their run up, the jump is doomed( Captain Mainwaring)
If an archers messes up the draw, they end up at full draw( or close to it) in a state that doesn't help the finishing of the shot.
That is the point of the spine rating for longrods. untill we get a spine rating we will not tell what the difference isAnd that’s the trap; “well made.”
They are all carbon fibre, all have a screw at each ends. The variability is tiny.
I’m no stranger to flinging money at kit but I do feel archers are severely taken for a ride with some stuff. Archery sunglasses being another.
Very important to recurve archers. getting to the anchor in a smooth and controlled manner less important to the compound archer we have the valley to sort things out in.I would like to find out what others think about "The draw".
After watching beginners for nearly 40 years, many of them struggle a little at the very early stages of their beginners' course, then settle into a fairly smooth routine.
Some settle into a draw style that seems less smooth than others; some " make it look easy".
My view is that the draw itself is far more than a necessary action; an action you have to do in order to eventually make a shot.
To my way of thinking the draw is the equivalent of a long jumper's run up. If they mess up their run up, the jump is doomed( Captain Mainwaring)
If an archers messes up the draw, they end up at full draw( or close to it) in a state that doesn't help the finishing of the shot.
Hi AndyW,I don't worry about it too much, as long as it gets there I settle later but I'm not the best poster boy for form or technique. Being compound off fingers helps. I know some who draw to the chest in the first instance after nasty experiences with strings. Doesn't seem to affect the end result, probably more critical to other styles / bows.