X7 problems

PLEASE HELP TO FUND ARCHERY INTERCHANGE

Big George

Supporter
Supporter
I have a set of X7 2214’s for indoor shooting. Compared to my outdoor arrows I need to move the sight pin about 1cm to the left and even then there are shots where the arrows “appear” to go off the the left missing the three spot target completely. I didn’t shoot indoor since the first lockdown and from memory they didn’t do that. My draw weight has increased since then, it’s now around 44otf (it would have been 6-8 lb lighter two years ago (
as I was recovering from illness). Arrows are 31.5in long, point is the standard Easton X7 100gm.

Reading the Easton arrow chart I’m on the cusp of T9/T10 but the 2214 works for both groups.

I suspect the arrows are being very unforgiving to any slight issues in my release which could explain why it only happens some of the time. That said, I’m not (yet :) good enough to get it right every time so some “forgiveness“ in the arrows would be good.

Any thoughts/advice short of going back the the outdoor arrows (medallion 500 spine, I had them nicely tuned). Change spine up/down? Shorten the arrows? Change the bow weight? I haven’t found any different weight points that would fit the X7s To allow me to play with different weights.
 

Rabid Hamster

Well-known member
Ironman
my 2114 x7's have gone odd as well. i was struggling to get consistency with the ali's whereas my carbons were fine. usually my x7's were my preferred arrow indoors but I suspect 18months of shooting nothing but carbons may have caused something in my archery to change. the switch to carbons was worth a 10% increase in score!
 

Stretch

Active member
Are you trying to shoot off the same button settings or have you adjusted the centreshot for the tree trunks?

The thing that always gets me moving from small diameter to large diameter is finger contact with the shaft… so that is worth looking at.

I don’t know how the CXL spines work out - a 2214 is a 425 equivalent so “I would have thought” the CXL was a lot weaker - so you’d need to add point weight to weaken the spine. Assuming roughly the same arrow length…

1. Where do the bad shots go (left/right/high/low/anywhere)
2. Where does the bare shaft go?

Stretch
 

Big George

Supporter
Supporter
Are you trying to shoot off the same button settings or have you adjusted the centreshot for the tree trunks?

The thing that always gets me moving from small diameter to large diameter is finger contact with the shaft… so that is worth looking at.

I don’t know how the CXL spines work out - a 2214 is a 425 equivalent so “I would have thought” the CXL was a lot weaker - so you’d need to add point weight to weaken the spine. Assuming roughly the same arrow length…

1. Where do the bad shots go (left/right/high/low/anywhere)
2. Where does the bare shaft go?

Stretch
I have an indoor button and an indoor string with the appropriate nocking point set as the X7 uses the larger nock. I used to have an indoor rest but I switched rests over the summer and I just adjusted it for the thicker arrow. I’ve checked centre shot, string alignment, tiller, brace height, etc. They are all set up.
The bad shots go left,anything from the six ring to missing the target completel,not much deviation from the horizontal centre line through the gold. I hthe bare shaft coming into the fletched group, first time I did it all the arrows were going left together including the bare shaft. I moved the sight far left to bring them into the centre. I had though of adding weight too the point but can’t find a heavier one that appears to fit the X7 ( I’m happy to change out points to see what works if I can get some heavier ones, similarly for changing bow weight) .
I haven’t videoed from behind but watching the arrows it can appear to fly straight then that a sharp left near the boss.
 

Timid Toad

Moderator
Staff member
Supporter
Fonz Awardee
Ironman
The X7s will be slower than your outdoor arrows so they will crucify your form, most particularly loose pinching the arrow and bowhand torque. I use really heavy point in my indoor arrows - Competition points go up to 220gn. But that makes em even slower!
 

Big George

Supporter
Supporter
Over the weekend I plan to modify my spacer so the finger gap is a bit larger to allow for the larger nocks. I haven’t noticed torquing on bow but I’ll see if I can set the iPad up to check it.
 

Stretch

Active member
I don‘t think Competition Pro Points are made for a 2214… not sure. I think TopHat may do but probably not heavy enough - 120gr max I think.

In ye goode olde days folks used to melt lead fishing weights into their points but…

I doubt it is spine really. Big arrows die if you shoot a soft shot and go low. Bad shots wandering horizontally sounds more like finger pressure pushing the arrow out. <Because that is what I do :cool: >

Stretch
 

Big George

Supporter
Supporter
I do think it is mostly down to “user error” given its inconsistent. I was talking about the release with another archer, we may both be curling the hook slightly plus given the difference in nock size I may be pinching slightly - all things I can hopefully correct.
I have the plastic beads the you can mold when heated, I’m going to see if I can get a better fit spacer and then see how it goes next week (I don’t get the same effect over the short distance I can shoot into the garage).
 

KidCurry

Well-known member
AIUK Saviour
...I suspect the arrows are being very unforgiving to any slight issues in my release which could explain why it only happens some of the time. That said, I’m not (yet :) good enough to get it right every time so some “forgiveness“ in the arrows would be good. Any thoughts...
That's my thoughts. If you had consistent arrow flight before going up in draw weight 6-8lb you are probably marginal now. Any form inconsistency will not be tolerated. I would look for contact or maybe try a couple of stiffer arrows as they will not break the bank. Heavy points is also good. I used to fill mine with solder, quick easy and cheap.
 

Timid Toad

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Airgun pellets are pretty good - weigh them first to get a good weight match.
 

Stretch

Active member
The reason I reckoned on tab contact rather than clearance was the arrows going left. Mostly a contact issue goes right. (Right hander). Unless using a low brace height super-dooper recurve limb I can’t really see how a 2214 wouldn’t be stiff enough.

Mind you it could also be catching chest or armguard and all that other stuff. Is the clicker (if using one) definitely in the same relative place as the CX arrows? Do the “bad shots” that go left feel like bad shots? Are they a struggle?

Just bear in mind that huge spacers can cause as much of a problem as small spacers. Getting the hook right can often make tab clearance go away.

Stretch
 

Big George

Supporter
Supporter
I modified my tab spacer to give a better feel/clearance. It definitely felt better and I could get what felt to me a better “squeeze“ on the fingers.
I was able to add some solder to three arrows (carefully making sure all the arrows were within +/- 2 gns, points went from 103 gn to 170. gn ). Unfortunately I don’t have 18m shooting distance at home so checking what difference the change will
make. Tomorrow I’m going to try some high speed filming of the release to see if I can sit any odd.
 

Big George

Supporter
Supporter
Tonight I shot a three spot using both the altered arrows (178 nibb weight) and the unchanged arrows (104 nibb weight). I was also using the modified spacer on my tab.
I shot three sets of 30 arrows, the heavier arrow first, then the unchanged arrows and finally I alternated in sets of 3 arrows. I adjusted the sight using the heavier arrows at the start And on,y made minor changes all night. The heavier arrows scored slight less with a 10 point difference In total. mixed set was the worse score. Arrow spread was more with the heavier arrows. In all cases the “wild” arrows (there were a few) stayed on the target face whereas last week they would have missed.
I felt the unchanged arrows flew better/faster but that was subjective.
There wasn’t any real change to the left/right sight position, it was the same as last week. I’m not sure what I was expecting with the heavier arrows but it made no difference.
I had been considering making up some nibbs at 200gn but I don’t think it’s going to make any big difference except to slow the arrows more.
The change to the tab feels the most significant, as people said pinching could well have been the biggest issue and the wider spacer is stopping that. I managed to get some slow mothion video of the release at the weekend and with The new spacer the fingers looked much better as they came off the string.
I’m going to stay with the lighter arrows for now, see how they go in competition next week. I might then use the outdoor arrows inside to see how they score (may need a bit of a retune for them).
Thanks for all the suggestion.
 

Stobes

New member
That's my thoughts. If you had consistent arrow flight before going up in draw weight 6-8lb you are probably marginal now. Any form inconsistency will not be tolerated. I would look for contact or maybe try a couple of stiffer arrows as they will not break the bank. Heavy points is also good. I used to fill mine with solder, quick easy and cheap.
If you go up in spine that will give a stiffer arrow. Putting heavier points on the arrow will effectively weaken the spine of the arrow.

As the description stated that the arrows are flying to the left (assuming RH archer),it means it's likely the arrow spine is currently too stiff for the bow tune, so, adding heavier points in may help this situation. Stiffer spined arrows will not help if they are too stiff for the current tune (as indicated by flying left (as per RH archer).
 
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