Two or three pounds more. That way I have a smooth pull through but without punching.I know one or two people here shoot a Carter Evolution. I was wondering how much heavier than holding weight people prefer?
My Evolution should arrive from Alternative today, so last night I tried measuring the holding weight using a digital scale. While I was trying to hold steady in the valley the weight was varying between about 17 and 18.5 lbs. So if the Evolution plus is set to 19lb from the factory I might need to increase it a bit.The most difficult thing is though measuring the holding weight.... P.
Punching an evo is possible but its not a normal punch. its more of a Yank to suddenly increase the force on the relaese mechanism. Punching a normal release is better than yanking an evo.My Evolution should arrive from Alternative today, so last night I tried measuring the holding weight using a digital scale. While I was trying to hold steady in the valley the weight was varying between about 17 and 18.5 lbs. So if the Evolution plus is set to 19lb from the factory I might need to increase it a bit.
How would you punch this release? I thought the point was you couldn't punch it...
Ah OK I think I'll know if I start doing that!!Punching an evo is possible but its not a normal punch. its more of a Yank to suddenly increase the force on the relaese mechanism. Punching a normal release is better than yanking an evo.
I think a good way to check the tension on the release is to check yourholding weight with a set of scales then use the scales to check the weight setting on the release. it would give you a good idea of the weight the release needs to set off.Ah OK I think I'll know if I start doing that!!
It's just arrived at my desk at work Feels very nice, but I've got to stop playing with it with a piece of string. People are beginning to look :cheerful:
Well there goes my idea.The best way I have found to set up an Evo is simply to set it to the highest weight, try it, and then lower the weight until I get what I want. You will probably do quite a bit of fiddling to get it just right, and I have found that I need to set up as a compromise between what I can easily draw at the start of the shoot :cheerful: and what I can manage a hundred arrows later :wide-eyed::relieved:.
For the record, I finish up with mine set to about 4 lb heavier than my holding weight, but, other than to get a very rough starting point, I haven't found using bowscales to be a very good way of doing it - might be different if I had accurate digital scales, but ordinary spring scales don't do the business for me.
Thanks Alan,The best way I have found to set up an Evo is simply to set it to the highest weight, try it, and then lower the weight until I get what I want. You will probably do quite a bit of fiddling to get it just right, and I have found that I need to set up as a compromise between what I can easily draw at the start of the shoot :cheerful: and what I can manage a hundred arrows later :wide-eyed::relieved:.
For the record, I finish up with mine set to about 4 lb heavier than my holding weight, but, other than to get a very rough starting point, I haven't found using bowscales to be a very good way of doing it - might be different if I had accurate digital scales, but ordinary spring scales don't do the business for me.
Punching a normal release is better than yanking an evo.
Well I made a start last night. I had a few scary moments when I forgot to hold the safety and watched arrows bounce across the hall floor. And I discovered what the 'punch' is like, which resulted in an arrow buried 2" deep into the wood at the top of the foam boss...? It is too easy to not pull hard enough before releasing the safety. This leads to anticipation (for me) so if I make sure I am pulling firmly first the release fires faster and I aim steadier.
? I am now keeping my thumb resting on the safety while executing. At a FITA on Sunday I twice flinched and pushed the release into my thumb. This re-engaged the safety by accident leaving me at half draw going 'oh crap oh crap oh crap'. That would have been 2 misses had I tucked my thumb away taking me from 1st to 5th.
Mine is set to 14.5lb, so every bow is differentThe release aid was set much lower than the 19lbs suggested, in fact it was much nearer to 15lbs. Once set I started to get good results almost straight away.
Yes. I find that I must use the wall to stabilize otherwise I do not old steady enough.Marcus your hints are going to be a great help as I try to make the change. Can I just check I understand the first bullet in the quote. Rather than drawing to the valley and releasing the safety, you draw into the wall and then release the safety?
Yep, sounds right to me.My, very limited, experience suggests that it is important to keep moving and not to stop and then try to start to apply back tension again (very much like recurve).
I'll cross that bridge when my wife lets me get to itif you have 2 bows you will shoot on a regular basis I suggest you have 2 evo's one for each bow.
I agree as well. A lot of people have used back tensions over the years during competitions to good use. Jamie Van NAtta uses one and she holds the ladies world record. My mate shot his PB for a gents fita with his. Splitter used his on the aiuk feild shoot. Just because its a back tension doesnt mean it cant be used for competitions.While I agree wih you on that Geoff, I think that it is important that users do not discount the Evo as a competition release. I shoot a trigger just fine in practise, but it's competitions where the trigger fails me (my usage of of course). I know the reason why (all mental) and the Evo has so far helped me beat that.
If someone gets ervous or punches only in competition I recommend the Evo for competition usage.