Bow weight for longer distances
- Thread starter inthemiddle
- Start date
That calculator takes no account of drag, which for arrows is very large as they are drag stabilised. It will not give an accurate launch velocity, though may well be good enough for your purposes.Just on that "doing the calcs" bit - If you know your time of flight, you can calculate the fps of your bow.
I spent a fun 30mins recording my shooting at 70m (iPhone voice recorder sitting on the shooting line) and working out my time of flight (load the soundfile into Audacity and count the ms between the "twang" of release and the "thunk" as it hits the target. Then subtract 212ms for the time the thunk takes to travel back to the phone).
Then load the TOF into a ballistics calculator and it will tell you the launch velocity. I used THIS one:
Projectile Motion Calculator
Use our projectile motion calculator to analyse a projectile in parabolic motion.www.omnicalculator.com
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You have a built in measure for this. Whether you are shooting with sights or off of the point, can you find a point of aim on the target at your distance? If you can. you are good to go. If you are trying to decide what limbs to buy, borrow some to do your testing to see if you can make distance. (This is iffy because you may end up shooting untuned arrows, but tuning your system will give you even more cast, so the approximation is good enough.)
There are some hedges, of course. You can turn your bow sight around (so the aperture is inside the bow) and that will get you some extra leeway.
Another "cheat" is (if you are right handed) use a left-handed tab and shoot two fingers over. This picks up quite a bit of cast. Unfortunately, you will probably have to change your tiller, but . . .
English Bowman
Well-known member
The bit about the Gary Evan Longbow is interesting, I'm getting point on the bottom of the target leg at 100yds, with 5/16" POC arrows, with 4" low profile fletchings shot out of a 45lbs Bickerstaffe bow. (Snakewood / Hickory.)
To hit the target comfortably with my recurve I'm using 38lbs limbs, (Marksman which tells you how old the bow is) 68" and a set of X7 alloys. (I'd invest in carbons if I wanted to compete using the recurve)
My draw is dead on 28" so the quoted weight is off the fingers.
Does this really work?
Not something I have ever heard of. Currently have my sight reversed for 60 yards and would like to reached 70 metres.
inthemiddle
Active member
Apparently Brady Ellison even with 53 lb on his fingers has to aim at the top of the target at 90m shooting x10's. Anchor point seems more import than power. I can't change my anchor point as I like how I have it now, bone on bone contact is more import to me that just getting a distance. I may have to make some compromises with the distance I shoot in the summer with the recurve. The longer stuff I'll shoot Compound.
I wont know how I stand with any of this until we get outside anyway.
I wont know how I stand with any of this until we get outside anyway.
StevoNilo
Member
Uukhas as mentioned in this thread are quick.. But inefficient.. Compare shooting 100 arrows with Uukha and a normal foam/carbon limb you'll work a lot more with the Uukha. The holding weight is less and has a lot of appeal to people who want an easy time through the clicker. Perhaps recreational shooters, or weekend warriors. I've also heard uukha isn't that forgiving.
As for long distance limb weights, I knew a archer who just had 28lbs and could achieve fantastic scores, however his form was brilliant.
The best arrow for long distance is still AC arrows. They have a great weight/diameter advantage to cut the wind. With carbon only you'll pay for it when it's a bit breezy.
As for long distance limb weights, I knew a archer who just had 28lbs and could achieve fantastic scores, however his form was brilliant.
The best arrow for long distance is still AC arrows. They have a great weight/diameter advantage to cut the wind. With carbon only you'll pay for it when it's a bit breezy.
Music to my ears, the fewer of my competitors shooting uukha limbs the better and that goes for KSL spin vanes as well
I’ve long wondered what poundage longbow would suit me. I currently shoot 39# otf with my recurve barebow and ACEs. So, just so I’m clear, your point of aim is BELOW the boss at 100 yds?
By ‘doing the calcs’ I meant that a high % of the energy in a drawn bow is transferred to the arrow, but kinetic energy is related to velocity squared. I.e. if you increase energy (draw weight) only the square root will come out as velocity increase.
And, BTW, try measuring arrow speed using a chronometer. The figures & how much they vary are fascinating.
And, BTW, try measuring arrow speed using a chronometer. The figures & how much they vary are fascinating.
English Bowman
Well-known member
Yes it is, it's a very fast bow, but so much depends on arrows, string, anchor point and how good the archer's technique is that it's not really possible for me (or anyone else) to say that a particular grade bow by a particular bowyer will get you the performance that you need.
I shoot 38lbs with my recurve for target, and would normally go for 50-55lbs for a target longbow, but I was offered this particular bow second hand by someone I know and trust for a price that I couldn't refuse, so although it's 5-10lbs less than I would normally go for I bought it and was shocked by how well it performs. My normal longbow is 65lbs, which I use for field, but when they are both set up with the right arrows they give an identical mark for me at 100yds. (I find the heavy bow more forgiving and easier to shoot on a field course, where I'll shoot 74 arrows, but a bit much on a full target round where I'll shoot double that in the same time.)
There isnt a one size fits all answer to your question. Something like how far you can adjust your sight in the vertical may make your decisions on what is the correct poundage. For example, I had a sight with over 20cm of vertical adjustment and a long rail to hang it on so it was possible for me to shoot 100yds with a 30lb draw. Unfortunately a footballer managed to clack by bow with his ball and bent the sight rail so when I replaced it with another that had less elevation adjustment I had to bring the sight in towards the bow to get to 100yds. Now that shortens the sight base and so increases the sighting errors a little.
Changed limbs so holding 34lbs and new arrows and groups about the same and less drastic sight movement required
The biggest difference to my grouping was made by changing my arrow rest.
For longbow I use a Nick Toy 60lb bow at 100 yds ( aiming at bottom of stand leg) and then an Aidy Hayes 45lb bow for 80 yds and closer. I could shoot the heavier draw bow for all distances but it is a bit knackering and my club treasurer would hate me using that for frostbites.
Changed limbs so holding 34lbs and new arrows and groups about the same and less drastic sight movement required
The biggest difference to my grouping was made by changing my arrow rest.
For longbow I use a Nick Toy 60lb bow at 100 yds ( aiming at bottom of stand leg) and then an Aidy Hayes 45lb bow for 80 yds and closer. I could shoot the heavier draw bow for all distances but it is a bit knackering and my club treasurer would hate me using that for frostbites.
Riceburner
Active member
hang on.... what sport/game were you involved with that mixed a bow (presumably and an arrow), and a football being kicked at said kit?? What game is this and where can I play it?? Sounds like fun...