Traditional Longbow Sealant Suggestions?

DatCoolGuy

New member
Hey I just recently probably 4 months ago bought this bow. It doesn't have any bees wax finish or even wood oil. I basically want to keep it traditional without using stock finish for guns or anything like that. I live in a humid climate so it isn't completely dry but I still want to seal it as traditionally as possible. What do you suggest I do and where can I buy the wax/materials to do this. Thanks.


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WillS

New member
With that being a whitewood (is it ash, or hickory or something else?) you're going to want to get it properly sealed against moisture or you'll end up with it following the string like crazy. Whitewoods are terrible when it comes to sucking up moisture and it really affects their performance. On the yew bows I make I always go for Danish Oil (beeswax, linseed oil and turps) followed by pure beeswax rubbed in, which is a fairly trad approach and works well enough on yew to protect the bow against sensible levels of moisture.

On ash/hickory bows however you're going to want a proper, decent varnish or sealant otherwise you'll end up with a banana eventually. Personally I'd avoid fully "traditional" finishes if you want it to perform well, and go for a quality yacht varnish. You could of course then put a few layers of pure beeswax over it and gently polish until you get a nice, low-lustre finish which will look like a traditional finish but with the added protection you will need with these types of wood.

Failing that, if keeping it totally trad is more important than keeping it snappy, go with boiled linseed oil, refined Danish Oil or simply lots and lots of coats of beeswax!
 

DatCoolGuy

New member
With that being a whitewood (is it ash, or hickory or something else?) you're going to want to get it properly sealed against moisture or you'll end up with it following the string like crazy. Whitewoods are terrible when it comes to sucking up moisture and it really affects their performance. On the yew bows I make I always go for Danish Oil (beeswax, linseed oil and turps) followed by pure beeswax rubbed in, which is a fairly trad approach and works well enough on yew to protect the bow against sensible levels of moisture.

On ash/hickory bows however you're going to want a proper, decent varnish or sealant otherwise you'll end up with a banana eventually. Personally I'd avoid fully "traditional" finishes if you want it to perform well, and go for a quality yacht varnish. You could of course then put a few layers of pure beeswax over it and gently polish until you get a nice, low-lustre finish which will look like a traditional finish but with the added protection you will need with these types of wood.

Failing that, if keeping it totally trad is more important than keeping it snappy, go with boiled linseed oil, refined Danish Oil or simply lots and lots of coats of beeswax!
I appreciate the feedback and sorry for the late response I've been busy. Its hickory. I think Ill go get some yacht finish and then coat it with beeswax to give it the feel I like. Where would you recommend I get the beeswax from? I see many places to buy "Real beeswax" Is there an online source personally go to?
 

WillS

New member
I get mine from eBay. If you do a search for pure beeswax you should come across lots of people selling the little rectangular blocks of pure beeswax. In fact the company I think I buy mine from on eBay is called the Wax Factory so maybe start there? You shouldn't have to pay more than ?2 for a block or two.

It can be a touch tricky to use - I tend to rub it in fairly roughly then gently heat with a hair drier or heatgun before polishing.
 

10point9

New member
If you want real beeswax go to the source! Look up your local beekeepers association and contact them. Many beekeepers make beeswax blocks and other products for sale, not just honey!

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Deleted member 7654

Guest
Most beeswax finishes are softened up by melting with some vegetable oil or turpentine.
Lord Sheratons Furninture balm is available in supermarkets, is a reasonable price and is excellent. Don't get the spray stuff, the one you want is pluma glass jar in a yellowish squareish box (about ?2.50) last for ages.
I made up some beeswax polish a while back. It's described at the end of the this post on my blog, mind I've not used it on a bow yet! :)
Bowyer's Diary: Derbyshire Yew 100# at 31"
Del
 

Raven's_Eye

Active member
Ironman
Most beeswax finishes are softened up by melting with some vegetable oil or turpentine.
Lord Sheratons Furninture balm is available in supermarkets, is a reasonable price and is excellent. Don't get the spray stuff, the one you want is pluma glass jar in a yellowish squareish box (about ?2.50) last for ages.
I made up some beeswax polish a while back. It's described at the end of the this post on my blog, mind I've not used it on a bow yet! :)
Bowyer's Diary: Derbyshire Yew 100# at 31"
Del
Don't know about on bows, but I've given my arrows a real good buffing with Lord Sheradons beeswax polish and this entire indoor season I've had no straw from the bosses sticking to the arrows, and any mud from outdoors just wipes off without a trace, it's fantastic stuff.
 
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