Glue for points in carbon shafts

[Newalpost]

There seems to be so much choice of glue types that I'm not sure what I need to stick in a few points that have come out of my carbon shafts.

Any advice would help.

Thanks
Colin

 

[Hidden Hippo]

Hot melt has always been my go to. Heat up the point with flame and then coat one side. Insert and twist and it should be fine.

 

[Kernowlad]

My choice of point sticky stuff...

Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex from Merlin Archery Ltd

 

[dvd8n]

My choice of point sticky stuff...

Bohning Ferr-L-Tite Cool Flex from Merlin Archery Ltd

Me too. With careful prep it holds points secure.

 

[Rik]

Ordinary commercial low temp hotmelt (not the ultra-low stuff, just the normal glue sticks). I could never be bothered to buy archery branded versions.

 

[Ozzy]

Pure carbon (not A/C) arrow manufacturers cover themselves against potential overheating & damaging of shafts by recommending using epoxy.
Most here that I am aware of use Easton hot melt sticks.
Just be careful & rather than heat the point to the stage where it is capable of melting the stick, melt the stick directly, smear it over the shank, then lightly heat the point shank to soften, then insert.
Works perfectly.

 

[Corax67]

I use Ferr-L-Tite to and have yet to have a point pull out, even on the odd arrow that found its way into timber rather than straw or foam.



Karl

 

[Newalpost]

Thanks everyone.....

I already have some hot melt glue sticks so I think I'll try that first.

Thanks
Colin

 

[Rik]

There's been more than one discussion on this kind of thing previously:
http://www.archeryinterchange.com/f273/ferr-l-tite-blue-low-temp-hot-melt-carbons-215259/
http://www.archeryinterchange.com/f273/hotmelt-217940/

 

[albatross]

Personally I would never use a naked flame on my arrows or points. I use a hot air paint stripper set to low heat. I found it much more controllable and safer.

 

[Libris]

I certainly wouldn't use a naked flame on my arrows but on points, inserts or nocks I just use the gas hob on a medium setting. It's fixed in place and don't I don't need to worry about bumping it, switching it on/off or knocking it over. The points are usually some sort of steel and the other bits aluminium alloy so it doesn't take much to heat them up sufficiently to melt Fer-L-Tite cool flex (the blue one). As for securely fitting, it took three of us to remove a protour from a wooden stand and the point was still fixed! Sadly the X10 did not survive the initial impact.