The importance of the pressure button

N

Newalpost

New member
I went shooting yesterday and the first two rounds were not good as all arrows were consistently landing to the left. Since I'd changed to a new tab I thought that it was due to me trying to find a new anchor point. It was only as I went into the third round that I realised that I hadn't fitted the pressure button. Once done all arrows when back to the centre line.

I still have a vertical problem and this is definitely due to the tab. I used to have a simple all leather tab but have swapped to a Hoccii with the metal plate, thumb rest etc. I'm beginning to wonder why I did this. :scratchch
 
backinblack

backinblack

Active member
You did it because you thought it would improve your scores. :beer::beer:

It sounds like you may not have gotten used to locating the platform consistently: anchoring further up the jawline can push arrows down and vice versa as the hand is raised and lowered slightly.
 
ThomVis

ThomVis

Active member
Do you put the shelf under your jawline directly or do you put your thumb on top of it (you say thumb rest)? Shelf directly on jawline can be a source of inconsistency, you can rotate the tab around the contact point, and it would still feel about the same, but the eye<->nock distance can change a couple of mm. I prefer to lower the shelf and put my thumb on top of it, then use the channel between indexfinger and thumb to slide along the jawline. This also allows me to feel when the tab moves in my hand.
 
N

Newalpost

New member
You did it because you thought it would improve your scores
Click to expand...
You're right of course. I'm sure it was advertised as 'Become an Olympic Champion for only ?8' . In reality I had expected to lose form and unfortunately the session wasn't long enough to get used to it or tune it.

Do you put the shelf under your jawline directly or do you put your thumb on top of it (you say thumb rest)? Shelf directly on jawline can be a source of inconsistency, you can rotate the tab around the contact point, and it would still feel about the same, but the eye<->nock distance can change a couple of mm. I prefer to lower the shelf and put my thumb on top of it, then use the channel between indexfinger and thumb to slide along the jawline. This also allows me to feel when the tab moves in my hand.
Click to expand...
I initially set the shelf to have my thumb on top of the shelf trying to mimic the feeling I was used to with the simple tab. But the first attempts with actually drawing the bow didn't feel right. I asked the other members with similar tabs what they were doing and got various different settings. Some with the shelf/rest at the top and putting the jawline on this, others with thumb on top but set high and so on.

I tried using the shelf as a jawline rest and this felt distinctly uncomfortable and had inconsistent results. I even removed the shelf completely with no real improvement. In the end I have the shelf set very low with my thumb on top so that the valley between thumb/forefinger is where my jawline sits. This seems the best and most comfortable position so far. I just need a lot more practice with this.
 
N

Newalpost

New member
New2Archery said:
Why not remove the shelf altogether and go back to anchoring with your thumb against your jaw?
Click to expand...
Yes, I did try that but didn't get long enough to see if it works consistently for me as the whole feeling is different. I have a longer session this week and should be able to try this some more. Currently I have it set to it's lowest possible setting.
 
D

dfrois

Supporter
Supporter
Sorry for being curious, but...are you a LH archer? You state that the arrows all went left with no pressure button fitted. On a RH system, they would go right, I think...Just seeking confirmation.

DF
 
blakey

blakey

Active member
Newalpost said:
I went shooting yesterday and the first two rounds were not good as all arrows were consistently landing to the left. Since I'd changed to a new tab I thought that it was due to me trying to find a new anchor point. It was only as I went into the third round that I realised that I hadn't fitted the pressure button. Once done all arrows when back to the centre line.

I still have a vertical problem and this is definitely due to the tab. I used to have a simple all leather tab but have swapped to a Hoccii with the metal plate, thumb rest etc. I'm beginning to wonder why I did this. :scratchch
Click to expand...
The thickness of the tab will effect the placement. I find that with a thinner tab I tend right, thicker I go left. I'm never sure about the logic of a pressure button. With trad bows an AFBs you don't use them. Park used to say tune with a stiff button and then back off. Now he's changed his mind! :)
 
backinblack

backinblack

Active member
blakey said:
The thickness of the tab will effect the placement. I find that with a thinner tab I tend right, thicker I go left. I'm never sure about the logic of a pressure button. With trad bows an AFBs you don't use them. Park used to say tune with a stiff button and then back off. Now he's changed his mind! :)
Click to expand...
Hi Blakey,

I wasn't aware that James Park had changed his mind on the stiff button thing. Do you have a link to what he's saying at the moment please?

Thanks,
Backinblack
 
N

Newalpost

New member
dfrois said:
Sorry for being curious, but...are you a LH archer? You state that the arrows all went left with no pressure button fitted. On a RH system, they would go right, I think...Just seeking confirmation.

DF
Click to expand...
No, definitely RH. In two rounds of 6 arrows each, everyone went about 30cm to the left over a distance of about 15m. As soon as I screwed in the button, they were back to where I was aiming.... more or less :)
 
blakey

blakey

Active member
backinblack said:
Hi Blakey,

I wasn't aware that James Park had changed his mind on the stiff button thing. Do you have a link to what he's saying at the moment please?

Thanks,
Backinblack
Click to expand...
I'll try and find it on Archery Forum. Now he's saying he would tune with it backed off a bit. I think! :)
 
Rik

Rik

Supporter
Supporter
And to quote for those who don't want to dig into TAF...
Hence, I would now tune a recurve bow using a simple bare shaft test at about 30 metres. That will be quite sufficient.
I would first run this model to try to select the shaft that is most likely to work. The Easton selection chart also seems to me to be pretty good.
I would start with the shafts cut a little bit longer than I think will work best (so that I can later shorten them if I need to do so to get the bow to tune).
I would set the centreshot perhaps 1 mm out from true centre (but it is not critical).
I would start with a reasonably firm button.
I would adjust the tune using the bow's draw force.
If I ran out of draw force adjustment I would then change the centreshot and start again.
If the archer is using SpinWings that will work well.
If the archer is using heavier vanes it will be necessary to allow for the mass of the vanes on the unfletched arrows.
If the rear of the arrow is hitting the pressure button I would straight away check to see if the archer is twisting the bow.
Click to expand...
 
N

Newalpost

New member
I took some time over the weekend to re-assess the thumb rest/shelf position when drawing the bow (no arrow) and found the most comfortable setting was without it. I then had a 2hr session at the club yesterday and slowly found my new anchor point and got some very satisfactory (for me) groups towards the end. So, this is what I'm staying with for now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top